|Grand Traverse, MI|
Description: Michigan’s Lower Peninsula is thought by many to resemble a hand. The peninsula between Saginaw Bay and Lake Huron is often referred to as Michigan’s thumb, while thirty-mile-long Leelanau Peninsula, located between Lake Michigan and Grand Traverse Bay is occasionally known as the state’s little finger.
On September 28, 1850, Congress appropriated $4,000 for a lighthouse on the northern tip of Leelanau Peninsula. President Millar Fillmore signed an executive order on June 30, 1851, reserving 58.75 acres of public land for Grand Traverse Lighthouse, which was also known early on as Cat Head Lighthouse due to its proximity to Cat Head Point.
Construction at the site began in late 1851, with materials being transported by schooner to the point and then being lightered ashore. A two-room dwelling with an attached kitchen and shed was built for the keeper, a position first held by David Moon, and a thirty-foot-tall, conical, brick tower was erected nearby. A fixed light, produced by six lamps and fourteen-inch reflectors, was first exhibited in September 1852, but in 1857, the light source was changed to a fourth-order Fresnel lens.
Shortly after being placed in service, Grand Traverse Lighthouse was found to be poorly built and poorly situated. Located near the eastern side of the tip of the peninsula, the lighthouse was useful for vessels entering and leaving Grand Traverse Bay but wasn’t of much service to vessels on Lake Michigan. The original lighthouse was torn down and replaced in 1858 by a two-and-a-half-story dwelling, built using Milwaukee cream city brick and topped by a slate roof. The dwelling measured thirty by thirty-two feet, and one of its gable ends was adorned with a seven-foot-square wooden tower. A fifth-order Fresnel lens was used in the new lighthouse until 1870, when a fourth-order, Barbier and Finestre lens was installed. The Lighthouse Board called this upgrade “a very necessary and decided improvement.”
Philo Beers was no longer serving as keeper when the new lighthouse was built, but he and his son Henry, who would serve as keeper of the lighthouse from 1859 to 1861, used some of the material from the original keeper’s dwelling to build a house in nearby Northport.
In 1880, a new wood shed was built, and the dwelling’s cellar was drained and sealed with cement. A two-story barn was built near the lighthouse in 1891. The barn received an addition in 1895, and in 1896 a brick oil house was constructed.
The Lighthouse Board noted in its annual report for 1895 that a fog signal at Grand Traverse Lighthouse was “deemed necessary to navigation” and requested $5,500 for its construction. Congress allocated the funds on July 1, 1898, and contracts were let for the project on January 20, 1899. A substantial structure, built of buff, pressed brick and topped by red, metal tiles, was completed in November 1899 on the shore roughly 140 feet southwest of the lighthouse. Duplicate ten-inch steam whistles, provided by George F. Motter & Sons of York, Pennsylvania under a contract with Ellicott Company of Baltimore, Maryland, were installed in the fog signal building and placed in operation on December 20, 1899. To provide a constant supply of water for the signal, a well was sunk twenty feet west of the building.
In 1933, an air diaphone, powered by air compressors driven by diesel engines, replaced the steam whistle. The most active year for the fog signal for which there are records was 1904, when it was in operation some 318 hours and consumed about 49 cords of wood.
The light was electrified in 1950, increasing its intensity to 15,000 candlepower. Keepers remained at Grand Traverse Lighthouse until 1972, when the lighthouse was replaced by an automated beacon mounted atop a skeletal tower.
The abandoned buildings slowly fell into disrepair until an organization, now known as the Grande Traverse Lighthouse Museum, was formed in 1984 with the goal of restoring the station and opening it to the public. After raccoons, squirrels, and bats had been evicted from the lighthouse, half of the structure was opened in 1986, while the rest housed a caretaker. A fourth-order Fresnel lens, formerly used at Michigan’s Alpena Lighthouse, is on exhibit in the lighthouse mounted atop the original pedestal from Grand Traverse Lighthouse.
Born at Poverty Island Lighthouse, David McCormick moved to the lighthouse in 1923 at the age of eight, when his father, James McCormick, transferred to Grand Traverse from South Fox Island. David lived in the lighthouse until 1935, when he enlisted in the Coast Guard, and after his father retired in 1938, he had not seen the lighthouse until he moved to Traverse City in 1984. McCormick helped with renovations at the lighthouse, and from 1990 to 2002, he lived in his childhood home, serving as caretaker of the museum and sharing memories of his childhoods with visitors. Keeper James McCormick was responsible for much of the beach stonework found on the lighthouse grounds. Bette McCormick Olli, one of John and Mary McCormick’s twelve children, wrote a pamphlet on life at the lighthouse entitled, The Way It Was, which includes the following:
Ma would sometimes make rag dolls for us with button eyes and bodies filled with sand. The sand would shift and the dolls felt as though they were alive. Store bought dolls were mostly for ‘looking at’ and not to be handled carelessly.
Instituted in 2004, a keeper program now allows lighthouse lovers to stay in the assistant keeper’s quarters in the north side of the lighthouse for week-long stints while greeting visitors and providing historical information about the station.
Head Keepers: David Moon (1852 – 1853), Philo Beers (1853 – 1857), Gilman Chase (1857 – 1859), Henry J. Beers (1859 – 1861), Solomon Case (1861 – 1862), Dr. Henry R. Schetterly (1862 – 1873), John C. Hall (1873 – 1874), Peter Nelson (1874 – 1890), George Buttars (1890 – 1918), Reynold W. Johnson (1918 – 1923), James McCormick (1923 – 1938), Paul A. Walters (1938 – 1939), Ernest Hutzler (1939 – 1946), Frederick W. Leslie (1946 – 1948), John Olson (1948 – 1952), Edwin Johnson (1952 – 1953), Carl Walters (1954), James M. Haley (1954 – 1957), John Marken (1957 – 1967), Terrance Herring (1967 – 1972).
Located in Leelanau State Park at the northern tip of the Leelanau Peninsula, marking the entrance
to Grand Traverse Bay from Lake Michigan. A state park entry fee is required to visit the lighthouse. The lighthouse
is open daily, noon to 4 p.m., during the month of May and from Labor Day through October. From June through Labor Day, the lighthouse is
open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Noon to 4:00 p.m. are the hours on weekends
in November, except Thanksgiving weekend. For more information, call (231) 386-7195.
A state park entry fee is required to visit the lighthouse. The lighthouse is open daily, noon to 4 p.m., during the month of May and from Labor Day through October. From June through Labor Day, the lighthouse is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Noon to 4:00 p.m. are the hours on weekends in November, except Thanksgiving weekend. For more information, call (231) 386-7195.
Pictures on this page copyright Kraig Anderson, used by permission.