|Lubec Channel, ME|
Description: Lubec Channel Lighthouse, located in the channel between South Lubec Beach and Campobello Island, is one of only three so-called “spark plug” or “wedding cake” style lights along the coast of Maine. Since 1903, it has been painted white, instead of its original brown.
In 2006, the lighthouse, deemed excess by the Coast Guard, was offered at no cost to eligible entities, including federal, state, and local agencies, non-profit corporations, and educational organizations. When no qualified group was found to take control of the lighthouse, it was sold by the General Services Administration via an online auction. The winner, with a bid of $46,000 in July of 2007, was Gary Zaremba, who is president of Artisan Restoration Group in New York City.
The town of Lubec, Maine, the easternmost town in the United States, was shaped by its proximity to Canada and the sea. Members of the Passamaquoddy tribe returned to the area annually for its spring smelt run, and to gather sweet grass and harvest shellfish. Later residents included Acadians expelled by the British for their support of the War for Independence. In 1798, Moose Island, Lubec and North Lubec, with their 588 residents, were incorporated as Eastport until June 21, 1811, when they successfully petitioned to incorporate as “Lubeck”, as it was originally spelled. During this period, the smuggling of flour, salt beef, pork, wood, and other goods between the U.S. and British provinces thrived and brought considerable wealth and growth to the area.
An 1883 Lighthouse Board report stated: “Now that the dredged channel between Lubec and Campobello Island, on the coast of Maine, has been completed by the War Department, it is evident that, to make this channel of value to commerce at night, a light should be established at the entrance to Lubec Narrows.” The Board asked for $40,000 for the project, but had to repeat its request before Congress finally appropriated $40,000 in 1886. The following year, title for the selected site was secured from the State of Maine and test borings were made into the “tough blue clay” of the underlying shoal. After designing an appropriate structure and inviting bids for the metalwork, the Lighthouse Board realized an additional $12,000 was required, and in 1888, that amount was obtained.
The Annual Report of the Lighthouse Board for 1890 provides details on the construction work.
The lighthouse which is now being built is to consist of a cylindrical iron caisson, 33 feet in diameter and 48 feet high, cast in eight sections of thirty-two plates each, expanding, in the upper section, to 37 feet 9 inches in diameter, to be sunk 6 feet into the site (11 feet below extreme low and 36 feet below extreme high water), filled with concrete, and surmounted by an iron tower, 37 feet in height from base to focal plane. Three contracts were made; one for the metal-work, one for the Portland cement, and a third for providing all other materials and erecting the structure complete, at the site. The metal-work from Detroit, Mich.; 1,100 barrels, or about one-half of the Portland cement, from Boston, and the greater part of the other materials; the sand from Plum Island at the mouth of the Merrimac River, Massachusetts, and the broken stone and brick from the neighborhood of the station, were delivered on the wharves at Lubec, Me., about 1 mile from the site. Advantage was taken of the great range, 17 to 21 feet, of the tides to erect the two lower sections of the caisson on the mud flats in the vicinity, whence they were very readily floated, by temporary caisson, to the site, and there sunk. After carrying up the caisson to the height of 36 feet, by the addition of four more sections, it was pumped out and sunk by excavation to the depth of four feet, when an irruption of water through the subsoil, on August 29,1889, within the caisson, interrupted the work and made necessary a sub-foundation of piles.
A temporary lens-lantern light was used to mark the structure from November 25, 1889, until the light from the tower’s fifth-order Fresnel lens was first exhibited on December 31, 1890. The station’s 1,200-pound fog bell, struck by machinery, was placed in operation on January 31, 1891.
The life of Frederic Morong, Sr., Lubec Channel’s first keeper, was closely connected with the sea. After working as a seaman, mate, and master, he operated steamships along the coast of Maine and New Brunswick, before joining the Lighthouse Service and eventually transferring to Lubec Channel Light. Frederic’s son, Frederic, Jr., “Fred”, became the District Machinist.
Lights and fog signals were dependent on the skills of the District Machinist. Instruction No. 1 of the 1902 instructions to Light-Keepers and Masters of Light-House Vessels stated: “All keepers must acquaint themselves with the workings of the apparatus in their charge. When the station is visited by an officer or employee of the Lighthouse Establishment, especially while the machinist or lampist is there, the keepers will take pains to acquire knowledge of every detail regarding the mechanism of the apparatus. Ignorance on any point will not be considered an excuse for neglect of duty.”
As district machinist, Fred often heard complaints about time-consuming, repetitive chores, in particular, the polishing of brass. His lighthearted poem, “Brasswork: The Light-Keepers Lament,” became well known after being read over a Boston radio station. As the son of a keeper, Fred Jr. probably spent his share of time polishing brass and acknowledged his current role as well in the poem’s eleventh stanza:
So it goes all Summer, and along in the Fall
Lubec Channel Lighthouse was a “stag” station, with two male resident keepers. The keepers had about 628 square feet of living space spread over the two lowest levels of the five-level tower. The bottom floor was a combined living room and kitchen, and the bedroom was located above that.
After serving as assistant keeper since the station was established, Loring Myers was promoted to head keeper in 1898. During his thirty-plus years on the light, Myer saved a number of lives, including a group of women from a burning boat, and two men, whose boat capsized.
In November 1920, Elson Small became assistant keeper and alternated two-day stays at the light with Myers. Not long after, Small married Myers’ niece, Constance “Connie” Scovill, who authored the book, The Lighthouse Keeper’s Wife, wherein she recounts her first time climbing the thirty-foot ladder bolted to the light, battling both a fear of heights and boats while trying not to appear afraid. At least she didn’t have to climb the two inclined, movable, rickety ladders that had served until 1899.
From 1934 to 1939, Earle Ashby, was the final head keeper of Lubec Channel Light. His assistant, Nathaniel Alley, was alone at the station in 1939, when gas from the coal stove caused him to lose consciousness. After failing to respond to the customary hail made by the captain of the Grand Manan ferry, Alley was rescued and taken to Lubec, where he died. Soon afterward, an automated acetylene gas system was installed, and the station was de-staffed.
The Coast Guard planned to discontinue the light in 1989, but plans were dropped following the local campaign, “Save the Spark plug.” Over the years, the light developed a lean, requiring a $700,000 renovation in 1992. After receiving some new plates, an infusion of 200 cubic yards of concrete, and 12 new piles—one driven 149 feet deep—the caisson still lists, but only about six degrees. The tower also received a new canopy roof and windows in 1992.
Visitors can get close to at least a piece of the station, as its fog bell is on display at the Lubec Historical Society. As of 2011, the lighthouse’s owner, Gary Zaremba, had done little to no work on the tower.
Located in the Lubec Channel, between Lubec and West Quoddy State Park. Capt. Riddle's offers a lighthouse tour from Campobello Island that gives you the opportunity to get a closer view of the Lubec Channel Lighthouse.
The lighthouse is privately owned. Tower closed.
Capt. Riddle's offers a lighthouse tour from Campobello Island that gives you the opportunity to get a closer view of the Lubec Channel Lighthouse.
The lighthouse is privately owned. Tower closed.
Pictures on this page copyright Kraig Anderson, used by permission.