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 Saint Simons, GA
Description: The beautiful two-story, brick keepers' dwelling and the white, 104-foot tower on St. Simons Island today seem like the idyllic light station. Such was not always the case. Stagnant ponds on the island provided the perfect breeding grounds for disease-carrying mosquitoes. The station was considered isolated before being linked to the mainland, and one of the head keepers was murdered on the lighthouse grounds.

John Couper, owner of a plantation on the southern end of St. Simons Island, sold four acres of his land in 1804 to the government for a token sum of one dollar. Couper wanted a lighthouse built on the island to aid commerce in the Brunswick area. In April of 1807, his plan seemed to have worked as a notice appeared in the Savannah Advertiser soliciting a builder with sufficient skills to erect a lighthouse on the southern end of St. Simons Island. The plans called for a lighthouse constructed of brick in the form of an octagon, supported by a stone foundation, and secured by a substantial panel door with iron hinges.

Saint Simons Lighthouse
Photograph courtesy U.S. Coast Guard
James Gould, newly arrived from New England, answered the ad and suggested that the tower be constructed of tabby, a local building material made from a mixture of lime, water, sand and oyster shells, and that some other minor alterations to the design be made. Gould's suggestions were accepted, and he was awarded the contract.

Gould used the ruins of Fort Frederica, which was built on the island in 1736, as a source for the tabby, and completed the seventy-five-foot tower in late 1810 at a cost of $13,775. Oil lamps suspended on chains served as the light source.

With the St. Simons Lighthouse finished, Gould was now out of work, but the following excerpt from a letter exchanged between two of his sisters reveals his work at the lighthouse was not yet done.

James has been officially appointed Keeper of the Light by President Madison, at a salary of $400 a year. The appointment came 4 May and he was, in spite of the small pay, plainly pleased to be trusted with the keeping of his beloved lighthouse. He appears also proud of the tower, so far, but what he insists is my discontent, I feel is somehow his own. I simply try to make him laugh and attempt to understand what it is he really wants to do with his life once the lighthouse is completed and he has been its keeper long enough to be satisfied that the lantern and all else is in order.
Apparently Gould was not too discontented with his life at the lighthouse as he served as keeper for twenty-seven years. Twenty years after his departure, the lighthouse was outfitted with a third-order Fresnel lens in 1857. When the Confederate troops abandoned the island in 1862, they dynamited the tower and keeper's cottage, so they would not benefit the Union forces.

Following the Civil War, noted Georgia architect Charles B. Cluskey drew up plans for a new lighthouse and dwelling on the island. The impressive Victorian duplex and tower were completed in 1872 at a cost of $45,000. The light from a third-order, L. Sautter Company Fresnel lens was first shown on September 1 of that year. The lens is a fixed lens, meaning it does not contain any flash panels and thus produces a steady light, however, there are four flash panels that revolve around the outside of the lens producing a bright flash once per minute.

Cluskey did not live to see his lighthouse completed as he died of yellow fever in 1871. Frederick Osborne, the first head keeper at the new lighthouse, repeatedly complained about the unhealthy living conditions on the island. The Lighthouse Board eventually drained the ponds near the lighthouse, greatly reducing the number of mosquitoes and improving life at the station.

On a Sunday morning in March of 1880, head keeper Osborne and his assistant had an altercation on the lighthouse grounds, wherein the assistant shot Osborne dead. The assistant was later acquitted of murder charges, which may have prevented a peaceful rest for the departed Osborne, whose service was cut short. During Carl Svendsen's service as keeper, which lasted from 1907 to 1935, he and his wife repeatedly heard mysterious footfalls, which would send their dog Jink into a frenzy. To this day, people claim to hear inexplicable footsteps in the tower.

In 1890, the brick oil house was constructed on the grounds to store the volatile kerosene, which replaced the increasingly expensive whale oil as the lamp fuel. The 9' x 11' building could hold 450 five-gallon oil cans. The kerosene was in turn replaced by electricity in 1934, and the station was automated sixteen years later in 1950. Shortly after automation, the passageway connecting the tower to the dwelling was removed.

The keepers' dwelling was vacant for several years until it was deeded to Glynn County in 1972 for use as a museum and visitors' center. After three years of restorative work overseen by the Coastal Georgia Historical Society, the museum opened to the public. The tower was opened in 1984 to climbers willing to brave the 129-step spiral staircase. Under the National Historic Lighthouse Preservation Act, ownership of the St. Simons Lighthouse was officially transferred to the Coastal Georgia Historical Society on May 26, 2004.

Photo Gallery: 1 2

References

  1. "The Lighthouses of Georgia," Buddy Sullivan, The Keeper's Log, Spring 1988.
  2. Georgia's Lighthouses and Historic Coastal Sites, Kevin McCarthy, 1998.
  3. Southeastern Lighthouses, Ray Jones, 1998.

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Location: Located at 101 12th Street on the southern tip of Saint Simons Island, marking the entrance into Saint Simons Sound.
Latitude: 31.13409
Longitude: -81.3936

For a larger map of Saint Simons Lighthouse, click the lighthouse in the above map or get a map from: Mapquest.

Travel Instructions: From Highway 17 in Brunswick, take the Torras Causeway to Saint Simons Island. After the bridge over the Frederica River, turn right on King's Way. Stay on King's Way past the blinking light at Sea Island Causeway, and past the traffic signal at Frederica Road (at this intersection, you will see the airport on your left). At the next traffic signal, turn right on Mallory Street, go one block to Beachview and turn left. Go 1/4 mile to 12th Street and turn right. The St. Simons Lighthouse will be on your right at the end of the street.

The St. Simons Lighthouse is open Monday through Saturday, 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., and Sunday 1:30 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. Call (912) 638-4666 for more information.

The lighthouse is owned by the Coastal Georgia Historical Society. Grounds/dwelling/tower open.

Find the closest hotels to Saint Simons Lighthouse

Notes from a friend:

Kraig writes:
While traveling from West Virginia to Florida in 1961, Eugenia Price stopped to visit St. Simons Island. Price fell in love with the island and the South and started researching some of the early settlers on the island. Over the next several years, Price penned an historical fiction trilogy on the island, the first book of which is entitled Lighthouse and tells the story of James Gould, builder and first keeper of the St. Simons Lighthouse.

While you are on St. Simons Island a stop at the beautiful and enchanting Christ Church is definitely merited. The huge oak trees draped in moss surrounding the cute church make for a very peaceful setting. Behind the church, you will find the tombstone of James Gould, and nearby you can visit the graves of other characters from Price’s novels and even the gravesite of Price herself. Price moved to the island shortly after her unplanned visit in 1961, and made it her home for the rest of her days.

Marilyn writes:
When transiting between lighthouses in Georgia, be sure to watch your speed, especially in those construction zones with big orange signs and cones. There is something to be said for Southern hospitality, but apparently it does not apply to speeding tickets.
Joanne writes:
Take the time to enjoy the area at the gazebo. Actually, quite a romantic spot. Any takers?

See our List of Lighthouses in Georgia

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Pictures on this page copyright Kraig Anderson, used by permission.